All of this information is helpful to the smaller gardener as well as commercial growers. As I read a ton of information, I reflect on my years as a small gardener and the pests that attacked my vegetables and why the weeds over took my garden. Usually by July, I just give up. I pick through my jungle of weeds and be done with it. Most of my problems had more to do with my soil and the way I was treating it more than anything else.
I always thought that weed-free was good and bare soil was even better. A few weeds here and there wouldn't t hurt anything. But after my learning, I realize now leaving the soil bare depletes the soil of nutrients that living organisms need to feed on the sugars. Keeping the garden mulched at all times is very important. I invite you to try a cover crop this Fall, keeping the soil covered in the winter, then lightly turned the soil under in the spring. Which brings me to my next point, do not till deeply if you’re tilling at all. You should never deep till the soil because you are not only disturbing the perennial weeds but disrupting the soils macro and microscopic workers.
Ways to reduce weeds: Growing living mulches between your rows: intercrop or companion planting vegetables: use closer row spacing so you create a canopy where the sun isn’t germinating annual weed seeds. An example would be growing lettuce on the outside of a planned tomato row. The lettuce shades out early weeds and is harvested before it competes with the tomato. The same can be applied to spinach planted between the Brussels sprouts. Do your own research to find which plants work well together as you are putting your garden design to paper.
Did I say paper?………..Yes I’ve learned that a paper design is best. This way you can record where you planted something last year so you’re not replanting it again in the same spot. So, wherever the tomatoes were last year, move them and plant peas in their spot, then plant cabbage in the peas spot the following year and lastly corn in year 4. Then you will have had a 4 year rotation that should help with diseases and pests! You are also adding nitrogen from the peas in each row every year they are rotated.
It sounds complicated but it’s not after you get the hang of it!
Did I say paper?………..Yes I’ve learned that a paper design is best. This way you can record where you planted something last year so you’re not replanting it again in the same spot. So, wherever the tomatoes were last year, move them and plant peas in their spot, then plant cabbage in the peas spot the following year and lastly corn in year 4. Then you will have had a 4 year rotation that should help with diseases and pests! You are also adding nitrogen from the peas in each row every year they are rotated.
It sounds complicated but it’s not after you get the hang of it!
Recently, I sent off 28 pages of paperwork to the certifying agency for my annual review. It seems overwhelming this year because they changed all the form designs and had to refill them all out again. But it's finished and sent off. We are adding a larger vegetable patch this year along with expanding the fruit fields.
More great news! I was informed that we were awarded another high tunnel though the EQIP program. This is going to be a bear to build because it’s 30X96. I guess we’ll get that put up in between planting and harvest times.
More great news! I was informed that we were awarded another high tunnel though the EQIP program. This is going to be a bear to build because it’s 30X96. I guess we’ll get that put up in between planting and harvest times.
Remember to buy your seeds and planting stock from reliable sources. Unhealthy planting stock and seeds brings with it diseases………….don’t opt for something just because it seems like a good deal at the time. So for now keeping reading and get your gardens design now.
